Saturday, 31 January 2015

Review of MANFROTTO 190XPRO3 tripod with MANFROTTO 496RC2 Ball Head

I would say
Excellence in Photography Equipment
this is what you feel when you use MANFROTTO

Manfrotto 190XPRO3 Tripod  +  Manfrotto 496RC2 Ball Head

First feel of this tripod is , it has some weight .
Made up of Stainless Steel, Excellence of Italian Design is very much visible.
Its a 3 Section Tripod with Quick Power Lock System. I am able to extend all the legs in less then one min. QPLS locks are little too tight but they you and extra security and confidence of secure locking and stability. 
This Tripod gains a height of 160cm by extending all the 3 sections and Central column. Maneuvers with Central column is little difficult,  until you loose all the locks. even after releasing all the locks it doesn't move very free or like a fluid movement. 
Availability of spirit level is a very useful feature in this tripod .
Overall a very sturdy Tripod with some weight but very useful
 features and excellent quality.

Manfrotto 496RC2 Ball Head - also one the best i have ever encounter . first of all its enough for a professional as well as hobbits. with some difficulty i some how learn the basic 3 moves of this head .  the master screw is very easy to move  the small tightener is little difficult just because small grip. only problem is the whole body movement for 90 degree turn, which is little tight . but still this is a ball head and it will have some limitations.
It can handle around 6-7 kg wt  easly . once you tight all screw even you shift the whole tripod with Camera and Lens mounted the ball head doen't toggle at all.
so again a very good quality ball head.


Dr.Mousam Jefferin
MBBS,  D.Ortho
(Trauma and Joint Replacement Surgeon)
Photographer by Nature

Thursday, 26 September 2013

SHUTTER SPEED of Your Camera


For all Practical Purposes it is the time duretion for which the light falls on your Image Sensor plate or Mega Pixel Sensor to create a image.
How it happens ---- In Digital Camera Shutter and Aperture both are built together in one mechanical part . Actually it is a Aperture which opens up to a Pre Defined size when you click or take a shot .( In Auto Setting - Camera decide the size and In Manuel Setting -- Photographer Decide the size of Aperture )
  Now this mechanical part has a spring which immediately close it back . 
this whole process is called Shutter Release so ...  
"  The Time For Which The Aperture Opens and Closes is Called Shutter Speed ."
 Within this Time the Light enters the Camera and create an image. If Shutter Speed is Slow -- means the Aperture stay open for long duration ( because opening and closing time is slow or long )  More amount of light will enter and will Create Bright Image and Vice versa .
 so Slow Shutter will Create Bright Image and Fast Shutter will Create Dark Image
Slow Shutter wont be able to freeze action of Subject, in other words A Slow Shutter will Produce Blur in Photo because of Subject Moment and Fast Shutter will Catch the Moment and produce Sharp Photo.
Calculation and Symbol--- 1sec, 1/2sec., 0 Sec, 1/4sec,1/10Sec, 1/20sec, 1/200, 1/500 goes upto 1/2000, so this means 1 sec is slowest shutter speed and 1/2000 sec is fastest. bbecause its 2000 part of a 1 sec.

Just look at the Water in these Photographs
Faster Shutter Speed

Slow Shutter Speed

See in a same Photograph Speed of Shutter is  fast thats why it has captured the action of water flow.
But in Second Photo Speed is Slow so flow of water is blurry and it looks like milky or foggy.

To Understand Shutter and Aperture we need to read them both at same time. its very easy. once you get full understanding of Aperture. you can take good photo by any camera.


Dr.Mousam Jefferin
©Dr.Mousam Jefferin 2013 
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Friday, 16 November 2012

Aperture of Your Camera, Effects and Effective Usage.

Learn  The Aperture setting of your DSLR & Semi-Professional Camera 
( Professional Series Photography Blog © Dr.Mousam Jefferin 2012 )

What do we Understand by Aperture - Its the Ring in side the Lens of your camera which open up and closes while you take photographs. Its the part of your lens which actually decide how much light will enter in your sensor for producing a photograph , so its simple ........

Aperture Blade (Closing)
Aperture Blades (Open)

If Aperture is Big Wide Open then More and More Light will enter 
and we will get Bright PhotographS.
Vice versa
If Aperture is Small, Narrow , and closing down Less Light will enter 
and we will get Dark Photograph.

Is it done NO. . . . . .
A Big and Wide Aperture also make your Depth of Field Very Shallow. Means area of Photograph which is in Sharp Focus will be very Less. again 
Vice versa 
A Small Narrow Aperture gives you Deep or wider Depth of Field. Means more area or subjects will be in sharp focus.

F /2.8  ----- Flower in Front left and Back (Pink one) are BLUR
(Original Photograph as taken in camera)

F /13 ------- All flowers are visible and in sharp focus
( Photograph has been brighten up in software ) 

So Some advantages and some disadvantages which can be exploit as per your need. Ideally we need to make balance of both the property for individual lens. Brightness of Picture and Depth of Focus area both different with different Lens. This property will be more prominent in Fix Focal Lens even a cheaper one and least  appreciable in Zoom lens.

How we say Wide and Narrow Aperture in Technical way - Aperture is shown in F Stop.
 ( Its Not SPOT its STOP) When Aperture is wide reading will Low in Number like F/1.8 or F/2 or F/2.8 if the Aperture is Narrow the reading will be  F/13 or F/16 OR F/22. Practically if Aperture in more open and allowing more light to enter reading will be F/1.8, 2, 2.8 and Vice Versa.

( Another Practical understanding is That If you Buy a Lens of 18-55mm F/3.5 at price of 100$ (Rs.5000/- INR ) Price of  18-55mm F/2.8 will be 10 times or 1000$ (Rs.50000/- INR) . This is because making wide Aperture lens need more precision and very higher optical technology . On the contrary a 35 or 50mm fix focal but F/1.8mm Lens will cost just 2 times or may be same price of 18-55mm F/3.5 BUT it is not a zoom lens at all, again it will give your pictures a very good Aperture Effects. In this Fix focal Category Long Focal Lenth lens like 100mm or 150mm with F/2.8 are costlier but again the Quality comes at a Price.)

Common Understanding Table.

1. Wide Aperture  F 1.8 / 2 / 2.8  - 
 BRIGHT PHOTO   -  SHALLOW AREA IN FOCUS - Total Background Blur
 ( Good for Low Light Photography , Night , Portrait , Macro)

2. Narrow Aperture F 13 / 18 / 22 -
 DARK PICTURE  -  MORE AREA IN FOCUS - Background Visible
 (Only for Day Light Photography, Landscapes, With Flash Photography)

If you practice the Aperture Setting repeatedly with your lens  you will understand it is very important part of Photography by DSLR cos this decide a lot of thing in your Photographs.
 This was Part one will post some more details of Aperture very soon

Dr.Mousam Jefferin

©Dr.Mousam Jefferin 2012
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Wednesday, 7 November 2012

How To Photograph a Landscape

How To Photograph a Landscape

The Second Most Common area after Garden where we show our Photography skill.....
Are we really Skilled enough to take good Landscape shots , Lets Find Out

Pure Landscape Photography is Very easy and if done following all the Rules of Landscape Photography .......Its Very Very Tuff. Like these Photographs..



 What is wrong with these Pictures. Simple they are not following the most Important Rules of Landscape Photography.  What are Those Rules ??
   1. Rule of Thirds (1/3) - This is very simple to understand , just draw 
                                                                " Tic Tac Toe " on your Photograph. 
Two Horizontal lines and two Vertical lines . # This will divide your Photograph in 9 equal parts ( It can be applied on any aspect ratio like 4x6in, 5x7in, 8x10in or even 16:9 HD ) . Now you have one Line on the upper 1/3rd of your Photograph and another at Lower 1/3rd of Photograph, they are 
Horizon Line (BLUE LINES) 
and 2 vertical lines 90* degree to horizon lines.
Place where lines meet each Other at 4 intersecting points , they are
 "Point of interest (RED CIRCLES) "

We need to keep the Horizon on the Upper or Lower 1/3rd Line and any subject or interesting  thing in Photograph should be on the any of the 4 points of Interest.
This is the First and the most powerful rule. 
Point of interest is a place in a frame where human eye and brain give max emphasis when you see a photograph. Rule of Thirds can be applied on any photograph and for all practical reasons it can be applied on all types of photography not just The Landscape. 

2. Horizon - This the line where your Sky meets the Earth in Photograph, we need to keep Horizone straight (No Tilt at all). In the Photograph  No1,  Horizon is Tilted that is why its a  not good. (One Should always match the Horizontal line of Horizon with Whatever  Vertical object available in the scene , it should be almost 90* degree to Horizon like Tree stem or a wall or pole etc.)

3.  Sense of Depth  -  Always try to add a Human subject in your Landscape Photograph , It gives a Sense of Depth or idea about the Size of the Landscape when viewers compare it with human size.   If we do not have a Human subject available for this comparison then It can be  Animal subject / House / or even a Electric Pole any article whose size is well known to all of us.  

Normal Landscape 

 Better Landscape
See The Difference 

   Their are many more rules for landscape But i feel " Rule of Thirds " Horizon and Sense of Depth are the most important needed to be clear . Please practice these 100 times before reading further about landscape Photography.

4. Lead Lines - Any lines or patern of line if present in side the landscape 

SHOULD NOT START FROM CORNER but it must GO TOWARD THE CENTER of the Frame predominantly. 

Watch the Lines on the Road

5. Subject Entry - Any Human subject or a important element in your photograph 
                                               Should make ENTRY IN THE FRAME not exit. try to place your point of interest or human subject or any thing in your photograph in such a way that they should make their ENTRY in the frame Not Exit. 

 Correct Photograph
Subject is making entry in the frame because she is facing & walking toward the Center of the frame .

 Wrong Photograph
Subject is making a Exit from the frame because he is walking Out with Body facing outside the frame.

These are few Rules which makes The Landscape Photograph looks better then others. please try and discussion and suggestions are welcome on my e.mail and on this Blog.


© Dr.Mousam Jefferin 2012

Tuesday, 23 October 2012

How to Photograph Flowers With Compact Camera

How to Photograph
  Flowers with Your Compact Camera

Flowers , The Beautiful creation of Nature to capture with compact camera For Memories and to show our Photography skill to friends and family. so we need some small tricks to capture these little delicate beauties like a professional Photographer.

As i always say "you don't need a Very Good Camera to take Good Photograph, but you need Good Photography Skill to Take Good Photograph"

1. Go Close to The Flower, (most of Mobile Camera may not allow close-up, so as much as possible ),  Use Macro Pre set of your compact camera , this setting is Indicated with a Flower on mode selectors Menu / Round Dial out side of your camera.  This will give you a detail view , more possible angles to Photograph the same flower and most of the time you will end-up exploring something new in the same flower. Macro setting will give details in close-up photographs. BUT WHEN YOU START MACRO YOU NEED GOOD LIGHT , so initially try this in bright day light only. (Never forget to reset your camera back to Normal Auto or Manual mode)

2. Use different angle , most of the time we just photograph Flowers  standing and hands holding camera at 45* angle toward flowers. My Dear People that is the Eating angle , used for Photographing Food on Table and  Not The Flowers. Shoot a from waist Level means sit on your knees and hold camera at 0* angle Horizontal or directly parallel to Flower , or think something different like shooting from Down to Up (Lay down on Ground and Shoot the Flower from Down to Upward capturing its Back Portion and Back Lighting on Petals ), Include the Blue Sky , or some Lighted Window as background.

3. Try to capture your Flower in MORNING or in EVENING LIGHT. They are the Golden Time when any shot looks naturally good because of Angle at which the light is Coming toward your Flower and The Color of Light . Specially Around 4:30pm - 5:30pm Evening when Harsh sun is down and a soft white light is present all around. A rainy or cloudy day gives you more freedom with time.

 Do not use flash , as this will over expose small flower, you will end up with a Shadow of whole tree or Flower on Background , with extended depth of field (area in sharp focus) which will gather un-unnecessary things in background . (If shooting in Auto still you can switch off flash in most of the compact camera)

These small things will make big difference in your skill and remember always try to do some editing after taking a photograph , like crop to eliminate unwanted objects from sides. 

A compact camera is a small camera packed with features and some limitation as well as gives you some freedom. Please concentrate on Small Camera , With Features , Limitation and Freedom , Small cameras now a day are more and more close to DSLR so you have a powerful gadget never blame it for bad picture, it has a limitation of little less sensitivity for Light but still you will have great freedom of moving camera easily in all side (down to up style) , and easy to carry anywhere which is most of the time not possible with DSLR.    

Enjoy Shooting Flowers , Make them Look More Beautiful.
Some Of My Images

Suggesions and Questions are Invited on my
Click on the Link for Direct e.mail
or email me on drmousam15@ gmail . com 

©Dr.Mousam Jefferin Oct.2012